<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: DIY Basement Workout Room Step 2: Insulating the Walls</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html</link>
	<description>a blog about all things rzepkowski</description>
	<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 12:52:20 +0000</pubDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.7.1</generator>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
		<item>
		<title>By: Don</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-4545</link>
		<dc:creator>Don</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Aug 2010 03:49:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-4545</guid>
		<description>Kris:

I have a couple of questions. How many tapcon screws per furring strip did you use? Do you know of any rigid foam insulation boards that will pass inspection without having to be covered by drywall? Thanks in advance for your help.

Don</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kris:</p>
<p>I have a couple of questions. How many tapcon screws per furring strip did you use? Do you know of any rigid foam insulation boards that will pass inspection without having to be covered by drywall? Thanks in advance for your help.</p>
<p>Don</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Olivia Miller</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-4544</link>
		<dc:creator>Olivia Miller</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Aug 2010 17:53:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-4544</guid>
		<description>wall insulation is really needed if you want to save on energy bills, wall insulations help save in heating cost;~`</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>wall insulation is really needed if you want to save on energy bills, wall insulations help save in heating cost;~`</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Rick Ski</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-4307</link>
		<dc:creator>Rick Ski</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Apr 2010 02:57:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-4307</guid>
		<description>I used wall panels by Barricade and did not need to use lumber which causes moisture problems. Good call to use XPS foam as it is better than any other insulation on the market.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I used wall panels by Barricade and did not need to use lumber which causes moisture problems. Good call to use XPS foam as it is better than any other insulation on the market.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kris Rzepkowski</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-4171</link>
		<dc:creator>Kris Rzepkowski</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:43:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-4171</guid>
		<description>Hi Scott,
I thought of using adhesive, but went down the Tapcon path so that I had studs to screw drywall into. You would likely need to use adhesive to stick the drywall to the styrofoam or something like that.

-Kris</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Scott,<br />
I thought of using adhesive, but went down the Tapcon path so that I had studs to screw drywall into. You would likely need to use adhesive to stick the drywall to the styrofoam or something like that.</p>
<p>-Kris</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: scott</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-4170</link>
		<dc:creator>scott</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:31:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-4170</guid>
		<description>Hi,

   I was told by a carpenter that instead of using tapcons I could use a good adhesive for the styrofoam. Do yu knowwhat the cons are to doing it this way? 

Thanks,

Scott</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi,</p>
<p>   I was told by a carpenter that instead of using tapcons I could use a good adhesive for the styrofoam. Do yu knowwhat the cons are to doing it this way? </p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Scott</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Roger</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-4111</link>
		<dc:creator>Roger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:58:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-4111</guid>
		<description>I do not get water in basement but moisture in air is evident. Do you think just using UGL drklok will do the job.

Roger
Jackson NJ</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I do not get water in basement but moisture in air is evident. Do you think just using UGL drklok will do the job.</p>
<p>Roger<br />
Jackson NJ</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: DIY Basement Workout Room Step 5: The Trim-ishing Touches &#124; krisrzepkowski.com</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-3568</link>
		<dc:creator>DIY Basement Workout Room Step 5: The Trim-ishing Touches &#124; krisrzepkowski.com</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Feb 2009 05:19:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-3568</guid>
		<description>[...] of my lack of finished ceiling and unconventional wall approach, I also had all kinds of weird rough edges to come up with solutions for, not the least of which [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] of my lack of finished ceiling and unconventional wall approach, I also had all kinds of weird rough edges to come up with solutions for, not the least of which [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Mac</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-3391</link>
		<dc:creator>Mac</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Sep 2008 19:59:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-3391</guid>
		<description>That's the problem, code requirements are the minimum that has to be done, but are not necessarily the best practices.  I would have thought it to be a standard practice now to install an exterior drain system and waterproofing membrane on any new basement while the excavation is open, code requirement or not.  The same goes for builders who install gutters that drain right at the foundation of the house instead of installing a proper drain system to carry water away from the foundation.  Even if not required, at the very least they should notify the homeowner that these are highly recommended upgrades that will only cost a little more while the excavation is open.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That&#8217;s the problem, code requirements are the minimum that has to be done, but are not necessarily the best practices.  I would have thought it to be a standard practice now to install an exterior drain system and waterproofing membrane on any new basement while the excavation is open, code requirement or not.  The same goes for builders who install gutters that drain right at the foundation of the house instead of installing a proper drain system to carry water away from the foundation.  Even if not required, at the very least they should notify the homeowner that these are highly recommended upgrades that will only cost a little more while the excavation is open.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kris Rzepkowski</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-3389</link>
		<dc:creator>Kris Rzepkowski</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Sep 2008 01:25:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-3389</guid>
		<description>Hi Mac. 

My understanding on the drainage regulation is that they must do either a sump and internal drainage or the exterior drain tile system, but by code they are not required to do both. Trust me...if the builder had said "It will cost you $5,000 more for a bone dry basement" I would have done it.

I did not insulate the floor. As you'll see in another post, we chose to lay rubberized workout floor right onto the concrete. I'm not really concerned about heat loss or a cold floor in a workout room. In my last house, we laid carpet pad and carpet right onto concrete and that was awesome. Even in Chicago winter.

I remember using the Phillips head Tapcons a few times. Inevitably I would either strip the head, or break the screw bit before the screw was fully sunk into the wood. Then, you are "screwed" ;) because you've got a stripped screw sticking out. With the hex, it either goes in all the way, or the screw breaks off in the wood (only if I forgot to set the torque on my drill a bit lighter). The hex head never strips out on me, so there is never an issue with being able to turn it. Plus, I can get a ratchet on it if the drill isn't cooperating. Yes, the countersink was a pain, but you get in a rhythm and forget about it.

Thanks for stopping by!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Mac. </p>
<p>My understanding on the drainage regulation is that they must do either a sump and internal drainage or the exterior drain tile system, but by code they are not required to do both. Trust me&#8230;if the builder had said &#8220;It will cost you $5,000 more for a bone dry basement&#8221; I would have done it.</p>
<p>I did not insulate the floor. As you&#8217;ll see in another post, we chose to lay rubberized workout floor right onto the concrete. I&#8217;m not really concerned about heat loss or a cold floor in a workout room. In my last house, we laid carpet pad and carpet right onto concrete and that was awesome. Even in Chicago winter.</p>
<p>I remember using the Phillips head Tapcons a few times. Inevitably I would either strip the head, or break the screw bit before the screw was fully sunk into the wood. Then, you are &#8220;screwed&#8221; <img src='http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';)' class='wp-smiley' /> because you&#8217;ve got a stripped screw sticking out. With the hex, it either goes in all the way, or the screw breaks off in the wood (only if I forgot to set the torque on my drill a bit lighter). The hex head never strips out on me, so there is never an issue with being able to turn it. Plus, I can get a ratchet on it if the drill isn&#8217;t cooperating. Yes, the countersink was a pain, but you get in a rhythm and forget about it.</p>
<p>Thanks for stopping by!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Mac</title>
		<link>http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html/comment-page-1#comment-3388</link>
		<dc:creator>Mac</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Sep 2008 04:10:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.krisrzepkowski.com/blog/life/diy-basement-workout-room-step-2-insulating-the-walls.html#comment-3388</guid>
		<description>Hi, I found your blog while looking around for basement finishing ideas.  Not to be an ass, but why wasn't there a drain tile system installed on the outside of the walls when the house was built?

Are you planning on insulating the floor?

What was your experience with the Phillips head Tapcons?  Didn't work at all?  Were you using a Tapcon driver or some other Phillips driver?  Just curious, I haven't tried them.  It seems like a lot of extra work to countersink the hole when Tapcon makes a bugle head Phillips screw...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, I found your blog while looking around for basement finishing ideas.  Not to be an ass, but why wasn&#8217;t there a drain tile system installed on the outside of the walls when the house was built?</p>
<p>Are you planning on insulating the floor?</p>
<p>What was your experience with the Phillips head Tapcons?  Didn&#8217;t work at all?  Were you using a Tapcon driver or some other Phillips driver?  Just curious, I haven&#8217;t tried them.  It seems like a lot of extra work to countersink the hole when Tapcon makes a bugle head Phillips screw&#8230;</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
