DIY Basement Workout Room Step 4: Getting Muddy on the Rubber Floor

Mon, 06 October 2008, 9:39 am

In front of all that awesome Styrofoam insulation and furring strips, we needed to install dry wall. I should say right now that I hate installing drywall. I actually don’t hate hanging the drywall so much as mudding and taping it. If I were smart I would have Googled a bunch of different advice on how to hang drywall, but alas, I jumped in feet first. I was on a deadline and there was no time for deliberation.

Hanging the Drywall
I bought 4×8′ sheets of 3/8″ drywall, enough to cover the room laying the drywall sideways so that the long seems ran horizontally. I placed a furring strip on the floor to rest the bottom drywall sheet on while I attached it. This provided a 1/2″ gap beneath it, so if the basement ever does get wet the water will not immediately soak into the drywall. To fasten the drywall to the furring strips I used standard drywall screws and this ingenious drywall screw setter.

Drywall Screw Dimpler
It is magnetic so that you can screw with one hand. Plus it sets the screw into the drywall with the perfect depression (dimple) for concealing the screws with mud.

I measured my cuts with a drywall t-square and cut the drywall by scoring it with a utility knife. I found measuring and cutting holes for electrical boxes to be easiest using a cardboard template the exact size of the desired outlet hole.

Mudding and Taping
At this point I should have stopped the project and hired a professional. I told myself this, but because of my impatience, I went and got what I needed to do the job myself. We used Fiberglass Joint Tape to tape all of the butting seems. It’s self-adhesive unlike paper tape which I think takes professional skill to make stick. For the corners we used steel corner bead tape. I thought this might make the corners easier to deal with. Probably the best choice we made was to purchase Sheetrock Joint Compound with Dust Control. This stuff was slightly more expensive than standard joint compound, but it made for much more clean sanding.

After getting up a few thin coats of joint compound, we moved on to sanding…


Tricia does her best impression of the Karate Kid training routine

As we sanded, we got more and more tired of the project. Days turned into a week, then 10 days, then 2 weeks… Finally, I called it quits. The mudding and taping came out nowhere near as flawless and smooth as a professional. But, it was good enough for a basement workout room. The only person who will be annoyed by all of the flaws is me. After finishing the drywall, we applied primer and 2 coats of paint to all the walls. This was great so that we could be messy instead of dripping on a brand new floor.

Sump Got You Down? Make it into a Closet
One of the more rewarding parts of this basement project has been our decision to build a closet around our sump pump area. We didn’t want to look at the well, nor hear the high pitched whine of the de-humidifier. Plus, we needed a place for storage. I framed a closet with the intent to put mirrored doors on it. This way we’d get workout mirrors as part of the deal. We also planned to face the part of the closet holding the de-humidifier with peg board, allowing the de-humidifier to pull water from the main room (not just the inside of the closet) and giving us a place to hang random straps and workout paraphernalia. We framed and drywalled the closet after doing the basement perimeter so that much of the inside of the closet was finished first. For the floor of the closet we used adhesive vinyl tiles that look like ceramic.


The closet provides a perfect place to stash a de-humidifier close by to the sump well

The Rubberized Floor
It took a long time to decide on what type of floor to put into the workout room. We considered carpet, hardwood, laminate, and vinyl tile. In the end, none of them gave us the durability and warmth we wanted on a basement workout floor. We wanted something easy to install directly on the concrete as well. What we ended up with was rubberized “Flexi-tile” that we purchased at Lowes.

Flexi-Tile Rubberized floor tile
Flexi-tile went down easy with its interlocking “puzzle piece” edges

To install the tile, we worked from the far corner of the room laying down tiles in both directions. The floor was laid right on the concrete without any adhesive. We used a rubber mallet to easily pound the interlocks together.


Tricia pounds the floor with a rubber mallet. Who knows what she’s thinking about?

Because of the weight of the the floor when tied together, it really doesn’t move. In 3 hours the main part of the room was done. All I then had to do was the trimming for pieces when we reached to opposite side of the room. For this, I used a simple t-square and utility knife. I cut the pieces on scrap wood to prevent my knife from getting dull. This part of the project was probably the easiest and most rewarding. When done, we knew that we had created a perfect surface for working out. The rubber provides great traction for stretching and aerobics, while providing enough warmth underfoot for and barefoot activities. Plus, it will be easy to clean with a mop when it gets dusty.

In my next posting I’ll have pictures of the finished room. We have moved onto trim work now, which is going slowly. Since we’re in the Fall and the kids are in school, we’ve begun to use the room in it’s current state of “almost finished”.


DIY Basement Workout Room: Step 1 | Step 2 | Step 3 | Step 4 | Step 5

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Read: 14 comments on “DIY Basement Workout Room Step 4: Getting Muddy on the Rubber Floor”

  • 1 Amber 15 November 2008

    Making our own exercise room, and love the rubber tile idea! Are you concerned about water getting underneath?

  • 2 Amber 15 November 2008

    Also, please share what you did around the windows and the color name, etc. of that awesome paint choice on your walls! Hurry with pics of finished project, so excited to see it. Thanks!

  • 3 Amber 15 November 2008

    One more.. could you show how you put up the dividing walls?

  • 4 Kris Rzepkowski 19 November 2008

    Hi Amber,
    With the rubber tile directly on concrete I’m not concerned about water getting underneath. There wouldn’t be any damage to rubber, so it’s actually an ideal material.

    As for the windows, I’ll cover that in a final blog entry when actually get around to finishing it. I bought some 1×10″ pine that I plan on framing inside the block to give it a finished look.

    The dividing walls are standard stud walls made of wood. For the bottom of the walls I use pressure treated wood just in case of water. I used Tapcon screws to fasten the bottom of the wall to the floor. The top plate of the stud wall is attached directly to the bottom of the floor joists in the ceiling. Then it was just a matter of filling in with vertical studs at 16″ on center.

    Thanks for stopping by!

  • 5 Gary Madar 01 December 2008

    Kris: Thanks for the great description of the exact project I am about to begin! I’m a fellow Western NYer living in Bemus Point on the shores of Lake Chautauqua. I intend to begin the project soon and your blog has made alot of my planning decisions easier. My home was built in ’01 on a sloped lot so only half the basement is below grade. I get no water in the basement at all but like you was concerned about whether I should stud the walls or use furring and the insulation. I’m pretty certain I will do as you did. Are there any drawbacks to using that method that you have since encountered? Did you glue the panels to the wall as well? I think I’m going to put a drywall ceiling rather than paint. Either that or I’ll hire a painter to do the ceiling. Thanks again for the great resource!

  • 6 Kris Rzepkowski 02 December 2008

    Hi Gary. I fished on Chautauqua Lake as a kid but haven’t been in a long time. So far I’ve been very pleased with the approach I took. The basement has been nice and warm this winter so far, and I’m confident that the material is the best to hold up to slightly damp walls every once in a while.

    I thought about using construction adhesive to glue the Styrofoam insulation to the walls, but I never ended up taking that step. I don’t regret it either is it was less cost and work. The furring strips held up just fine.

    Drywall is certainly an option for the ceiling, but keep in mind it makes all of the plumbing and wiring in the floor above inaccessible. In my first house I had a drywalled ceiling in the basement and ended up having to cut holes in it and patch it when we installed various things. Not the end of the world though.

    Good Luck! Take lots of pictures and post them some place so I can see them.

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  • 11 Joe Magarac 10 March 2010

    Kris -

    Hope you see this comment a long time after the fact. I am researching basement flooring and this Flexi-Tile seems like a great solution. But a review of a similar product at Lowe’s says that the tiles will warp and bend when the temperature changes, forcing you to reinstall the floor at every change of season. Have you had any problems like this with Flexi-Tile? Any other positive or negative impressions after 1.5 years?

  • 12 Kris Rzepkowski 10 March 2010

    Joe,
    It looks as good as the day we installed it. We’ve had a pretty harsh winter, and we have ve seen no issues whatsoever. I wouldn’t say that our basement temp swings hugely though. If this were in the garage I could see it freezing and thawing maybe. My wife trains clients on it every day, and the surface is fairly scuff resistant as well. Not 100%, but pretty good. So far, I would continue to highly recommend this product. Thanks for your comment!

  • 13 brian 31 May 2011

    great site
    Mrs K was my highlight and inspiration as a wife/husband team—this project is exactly what we have to do, and are worried that we will add to the value of our home.

    I grew up in Andover NY,now live in MD

  • 14 alex 06 January 2012

    great legs on her!

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