DIY Deck Stain Weekend the Sherwin-Williams Way

Fri, 02 May 2008, 9:16 am

The year of the deck continued as we took advantage of more summer-like April weather to tackle the dreaded deck stain project. This came just a week after we completed our deck skirt to keep the critters out. We knew a year ago when we had our pressure treated deck built, that the time would come for sealing and staining it. After all, we saved 2/3rds of the cost of no maintenance Trex decking by having it built of wood. After a full year of aging, the wood has cured well enough to receive stain.

A friend of ours recommended our local Sherwin-Williams store for getting our supplies rather than Lowes or Home Depot. He said that the staff there could provide a lot more expertise about the right approach and products for a deck than the others. All I knew was that I wasn’t interested in sealing and staining the deck in 2 different steps. I wanted a product that would take care of business all at once.

Ask Sherwin-Williams
I had that commercial in my head as I went in to get a consultation. The professional behind the counter must have spent 35 minutes with me explaining all my options in deck stains. He explained that I actually did not need to clean my deck unlike most poor saps that are restoring some gray weather-worn disaster. I wanted to see the wood grain through the stain, so I knew I did not want a solid. The guy suggested an off-the shelf honey colored Deckscapes toner (I forget the exact color). There were many colors to choose from, but like regular paint, once a color is mixed you can’t return it. Then, he told me the best way to apply the stain - a 5 inch wide brush on an extension pole so I wouldn’t break my back. For the spindles and other hard to reach places, it was going to be good old-fashioned brush work and lots of it. Finally, he was able to estimate number of cans I would need to complete the deck and our playset - 5 gallons.

I brought the stain home and brushed it onto a test piece. We really didn’t like it. There was barely a discernable difference between the stained wood and that which was not. Tricia convinced me that if we were going to do all of this work that we had better notice the results. So, I wandered back to the store with a test piece in hand and a picture in my head of a much darker brown hue with a hint of red. I must have hemmed and hawed another 45 minutes about the color. I tested cedar which was way too orange. Finally I settled on DeckScapes Exterior Waterborne Semi-Transparent stain in a custom color - Riverwood. Once he mixed it, there was no turning back. I had almost $200 in stain on the table, and no place for it to go but on the deck, like it or not.

Railings are No Fun
We started first with the railings and spindles figuring that we would not want to be walking around on a drying deck surface trying to get at them. The stain had a knack for dripping, but we managed to get a good coat of it on without making too much of a mess.

Floorboards are Easier
Once we got to the floor, life got a little bit easier. My helpers applied stain with their smaller brushes, while I came in after them with the 5″ wide brush we affectionately called ‘The Beast’. Mason wielded the ‘mini-Beast’ (the 2.5″ brush) to help mommy and daddy for the first time with a big project. Anna stayed inside much of the day with her chicken pox.

Kris and Mason Stain the Deck
Kris with ‘The Beast’ and Mason with the ‘Mini Beast’ staining the deck

We were putting the last touches on the first coat of stain in the darkness of day one. When we came out in the morning on day 2, we could see where the stain was uneven on the final few floorboards that we stained in twilight. I think it had as much to do with having painted ourselves into a corner (and switching techniques) as it did with the darkness. I made the call to put on a second coat on the floorboards only so that we had a nice even look to things. That only took about 3 extra hours to accomplish. We did not stain the deck skirt. We’ll likely wait until the fall so that the wood has time to cure. The deck looks awesome now. The stain will definitely give us a couple of good years of protection before we need to do it again.

Tricia stains the deck
Tricia staining the deck with the playset project looming in the background

After we completed the deck, we moved right into the playset. Because it was built of pressure treated 2 years ago, the wood was much more thirsty. This coupled with far more intricate surfaces to cover made the project last the rest of the day. When it was all over, we had a matching deck and playset that should last a lot longer now that they’ve been protected.

UPDATE AUGUST 6, 2009
I’ve gotten quite a few comments asking how the deck looks after a year. I’m sad to report that it looks TERRIBLE! Here’s a few pictures of the stain peeling off of the pressure treated wood.

deck-stairs
The deck stairs, one of the high traffic areas, but not the only location where the stain is peeling

thumbs-down
A close up shows that there is a significant amount of stain that has flaked off after only a year

railing
Even the railings which receive no foot traffic are flaking

Anywhere on the deck that is exposed to the weather has some degree if flaking or peeling of the stain. The only place where the stain still looks good is under the deck canopy. The play set does not have nearly as bad of a problem. I’m going to guess that I damaged the stain by applying a second coat to the deck. The guy at the store only offered up this as a no-no AFTER I had come back for another can last year. He said that the first layer may repel the second layer of stain from sticking. I’m not sure. No matter what, I’m faced with figuring out next year how to prepare the surface of my deck for another try. I’m not sure what I’ll do then, but I’ll be sure to post when I do.

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Read: 21 comments on “DIY Deck Stain Weekend the Sherwin-Williams Way”

  • 1 Smart One 29 May 2008

    I have a few words for these hard working people. Your deck looks great but next time do yourself a favor save hours if not a full day on the railings and spindles.
    Use an applicator called SPINDLEase check out there web site. http://www.spindlease.com
    Talk about saving time wow. All I can say is if someone told me to put a brush on the end of a pole I would laugh in there face.

  • 2 Josie Galloway 25 February 2009

    I would like to know how your deck looked a year later. We used this product and it started to peal and flake off like paint-HATE IT! and they do not stand by their product!

  • 3 Jason 17 March 2009

    I would also like to see how your deck looked a year later! If it does not look too good could you please e-mail me a picture with you on the deck with an unhappy face in a similar position kneeling? Sounds weird… I know but I would like to use this story and picture in a deck staining marketing piece if possible. Please e-mail to marketing{at]sealwizekc.com.

  • 4 Brian Duncan 31 July 2009

    I’m getting ready to do my kids playset as well as our deck. We also have been researching stains and I’m wondering how yours is holding up? Any pics available. We have picked out the riverwood color like you have so it would be interesting to see it. Thanks.€

  • 5 Kris Rzepkowski 06 August 2009

    Well, there you go Brian, Josie and Jason. I added some updated photos. The surface didn’t hold the stain well at all. The only thing I can think of was that I shouldn’t have done a second coat. If anyone has any similar experiences I’d love to hear it. And if anyone has ideas how to prep the surface of the deck now that it looks like this, I’m all ears.

  • 6 robert 03 September 2009

    hi what you can do now is powewash it. also, when you stain again, use an oil based semi transparent this will penetrate into the wood more. if you find that all the previous stain didnt come off after the power wash you can use Wolmans Deck Strip and rewash it. my deck had 25 years of the same stain and now its all gone. dont waste your money on a electric power washer youd be better off renting a higher pressure gas washer. also most clears dont last and solid stains act more like paint and will scratch off leaving you to scrape and sand next time.

  • 7 Gregg 13 September 2009

    Can’t imagine the second coat did it. The Sherwin-Williams brochure actually recommends two coats, on weathered wood at least. Temperature? Inadequately prepared surface (we’re about to pressure was ours)? Or a better stain?

    What have you concluded?

  • 8 Nick 14 September 2009

    I use some Sherwin Williams deck products, but sad to say the Semi-Transparent waterborne is junk. I’m just outside of St. Louis, MO, and am a paint contractor, and the SW store I go to says the waterborne semi-trans is meant to be done every year. If you can somehow get all that crap off of there with stripper and a power washer, I’d go with a good old-fashioned stinky oil-based semi-transparent. It won’t peel, but you will have to do it every 2-4 years depending on traffic and sun exposure. Wolman F&P is pretty good and around here we use a brand called TWP. Search both of them and see what comes up. Good Luck!

  • 9 nick 14 September 2009

    As for “smart one” at the top of the page, his “spindlease” tool will only be effective on terribly smooth wood, such as pressure treated. Some of these toys people come up with don’t replace a fat brush and a few hours of labor. Anybody that told me to use one of those, I’d laugh in their FACE!

    Just imagine dipping that thing in a bucket of sticky stain over and over again and all the drips that would happen, or try that on some rough cedar. Oops, squeeze it too hard and all the stain runs out! What a nightmare! He tried to be clever, but failed. Staining a deck is work, regardless of the toys people come up with. Either hire a pro, or get ready to spend some time doing it yourself. Feel free to email me with questions at nick@snlpainting.com.

  • 10 Liz 05 October 2009

    My contractor just sprayed the lattice work on the back of our home and the stain looks more like paint than stain. He used 3 gallons and at $33.99 per gallon, it is turning into a very expensive project. The application was done with a sprayer, could that be the problem. I am not happy at all with the look.
    can anyone shed some light on what happened.
    we checked the cans and they are not the ones that contain paint and stain.

  • 11 Sheri 06 December 2009

    hi,, folks. have either of you come across colored wood stains, stains that might gie a hue to wood so that it looks, say, purple or blue? as I understand it, it wouldn’t work to just mix paint into varnish . . . but I’ve only come across one source for coilored stain (Dykem), and it seems to be an industrial product.

  • 12 Drew 12 March 2010

    Do not beat yourself up over the second coat. That did not cause the flaking. Any water-based sealer will wear the way yours did and will then be much more difficult to maintain. While the Sherwin-Williams folks seemed like they were helping, you need a pentrating oil-based sealer. It would not have been sticky (much easier to apply) and, more importantly, yearly maintenance would have been a snap. With a penetrating sealer, you simply clean the surface and re-apply whenever the deck is starting to lose its color.

    Yours is a great profile into why restoring and treating a deck is not always a DIY job. We do decks every week here in SoCal and know how bad some of the ones we are seeing are before we restore them. Thanks for sharing

  • 13 sharon newberg 15 March 2010

    boy now i am totally confused on this stuff. i live in florida and used pressure treated pine. please isn’t there someone out there that does this for a living and can direct me in the right direction? i want to add alittle color being it is pine but just like a light oak tone. should i use a oil base??.
    help me i am about ready to lose it with this deck

  • 14 Jon 14 June 2010

    You all must be frustrated, you need to use a pressure treated wood prep treatment. Go to Home Depot or Lowes or your local hardware store and buy a gallon of this potent acidic treatment. Apply the treatment to old wood decks & to new decks. The treatment will make the wood cells open up and become more porous, making the surface ready to paint. Let it dry for at least two hours after application. You are ready to paint. With pressure treated wood, old or new, you must prep the wood, otherwise paint or stain will look terrible after a couple of months.

  • 15 Kris Rzepkowski 14 June 2010

    @Jon, you are right, I am frustrated. I’m leaving this crummy stain on my deck for another year. It has flaked even more this summer, but I haven’t summoned up the desire to go after the deck again. Nonetheless, I’m gathering ideas on what I’m going to do next. I didn’t know that there was a treatment as you describe, so I’m going to look into it. Thanks for the idea!

  • 16 tyler 23 July 2010

    no matter where you get your stain, if it is a (waterborne) it will flake and peel. Its like taking a latex paint and walking all over it. Sooner or later it will flake, chip, or peel. I’ve been staining decks and painting for about 4 years and ive noticed that an oil-base is gunna last alot longer. It will dry slower giving it time to soak into the wood better, giving it a better adhesion. It will also get alot harder and more durable. I hate to say this, but the best way to fix this problem would be to powerwash, let dry for a day or two, then, the worst part, SAND it. Gunna take for ever but this will get rid of all of that nasty waterborne stain. Sherwin-williams is a Great store and they are very smart, they have good products, you just have to choose the right ones. The best people to talk to are the manager and asst manager. They will be the most helpful. Another thing that is going to take a huge affect of how long your stain last will be the weather. I would try to keep as much snow off of there as possible. No stain will last forever, But good care and oil-based stain will help it last longer.

  • 17 kim moran 26 July 2010

    Our deck did the same thing, but we used Behr products. Stay away from Behr. I’ve been staining my deck for 14 years now and the best thing Ive used so far is CWF. It lasted 3 years.I have also heard that One Time Wood is a good product but have not tried it myself. Good luck to everyone during this very time consuming expensive task!!

  • 18 Chris Lurie 28 July 2010

    We just had our deck stained yesterday with Sherin Williams Deckscape Solid Color. They finished at 4:oopm and today at about 3:30 it rained!! It was a very hot day about 90 degrees so the painter said it would be dry by today. The deck seemed dry today except for the last section they did. It seemed a tad tacky. My deck is about 12 years old but we power washed it and sanded it down days before the painter came and stained it. Will the rain ruin the finish? or worse yet do we have to do it over? This weather has been so unpredictable this year.

  • 19 Abigail Trainor 03 August 2010

    Two years ago we followed all of the Sherwin Williams directions on our 1200 square foot deck, powerwashing and doing all of the prep work. We applied waterborne semi transparent Deckscapes stain and were happy for about 3 months. Then the disaster occurred!! After the winter, it looked like the entire deck had chicken pox!! The Sherwin Williams reps came to take a look and said that the stain had not penetrated the decking boards. This was not a new deck, so it had some years to weather. They told us to power wash it again and apply oil based Deckscapes. They did supply 5 gallons at no charge. Again, after a few months, it looked embarrasingly awful.

    We are just finishing having new PT decking installed, but are really confused as to what product is best. Our intention is to apply some kind of an oil based product. We are thinking of semi transparent again, but want to make sure that it is a superior product which will not blister and flake all over. Any suggestions?

  • 20 Kris Rzepkowski 04 August 2010

    Wow, Abigail. I guess my advice for you is to stay far away from Sherwin-Williams. Since you applied oil-based which seemed to be everyone’s recommendation, and you still had problems, then I’m at a loss for what I would do next as well. You certainly have my attention, as what you did was very likely going to be my next step. Keep us posted on what you decide.

  • 21 Abigail Trainor 05 August 2010

    Hi,
    The original was waterborne, not oil based, which is supposedly the reason that the stain sat on top of the wood, hence our intent to use oil based product this time around. Trouble is we are very hesitant to repeat a disaster. What would anyone recommend for a good oil based product for new PT wood? I have heard that Penofin is good, but does it really require a wipe down of the stain? With the size of our deck, that is not our intention. Have also heard that TWP is good, but I don’t know.
    Thanks,
    Abigail

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