DIY Deck Stain Weekend the Sherwin-Williams Way

Fri, 02 May 2008, 9:16 am

The year of the deck continued as we took advantage of more summer-like April weather to tackle the dreaded deck stain project. This came just a week after we completed our deck skirt to keep the critters out. We knew a year ago when we had our pressure treated deck built, that the time would come for sealing and staining it. After all, we saved 2/3rds of the cost of no maintenance Trex decking by having it built of wood. After a full year of aging, the wood has cured well enough to receive stain.

A friend of ours recommended our local Sherwin-Williams store for getting our supplies rather than Lowes or Home Depot. He said that the staff there could provide a lot more expertise about the right approach and products for a deck than the others. All I knew was that I wasn’t interested in sealing and staining the deck in 2 different steps. I wanted a product that would take care of business all at once.

Ask Sherwin-Williams
I had that commercial in my head as I went in to get a consultation. The professional behind the counter must have spent 35 minutes with me explaining all my options in deck stains. He explained that I actually did not need to clean my deck unlike most poor saps that are restoring some gray weather-worn disaster. I wanted to see the wood grain through the stain, so I knew I did not want a solid. The guy suggested an off-the shelf honey colored Deckscapes toner (I forget the exact color). There were many colors to choose from, but like regular paint, once a color is mixed you can’t return it. Then, he told me the best way to apply the stain – a 5 inch wide brush on an extension pole so I wouldn’t break my back. For the spindles and other hard to reach places, it was going to be good old-fashioned brush work and lots of it. Finally, he was able to estimate number of cans I would need to complete the deck and our playset – 5 gallons.

I brought the stain home and brushed it onto a test piece. We really didn’t like it. There was barely a discernable difference between the stained wood and that which was not. Tricia convinced me that if we were going to do all of this work that we had better notice the results. So, I wandered back to the store with a test piece in hand and a picture in my head of a much darker brown hue with a hint of red. I must have hemmed and hawed another 45 minutes about the color. I tested cedar which was way too orange. Finally I settled on DeckScapes Exterior Waterborne Semi-Transparent stain in a custom color – Riverwood. Once he mixed it, there was no turning back. I had almost $200 in stain on the table, and no place for it to go but on the deck, like it or not.

Railings are No Fun
We started first with the railings and spindles figuring that we would not want to be walking around on a drying deck surface trying to get at them. The stain had a knack for dripping, but we managed to get a good coat of it on without making too much of a mess.

Floorboards are Easier
Once we got to the floor, life got a little bit easier. My helpers applied stain with their smaller brushes, while I came in after them with the 5″ wide brush we affectionately called ‘The Beast’. Mason wielded the ‘mini-Beast’ (the 2.5″ brush) to help mommy and daddy for the first time with a big project. Anna stayed inside much of the day with her chicken pox.

Kris and Mason Stain the Deck
Kris with ‘The Beast’ and Mason with the ‘Mini Beast’ staining the deck

We were putting the last touches on the first coat of stain in the darkness of day one. When we came out in the morning on day 2, we could see where the stain was uneven on the final few floorboards that we stained in twilight. I think it had as much to do with having painted ourselves into a corner (and switching techniques) as it did with the darkness. I made the call to put on a second coat on the floorboards only so that we had a nice even look to things. That only took about 3 extra hours to accomplish. We did not stain the deck skirt. We’ll likely wait until the fall so that the wood has time to cure. The deck looks awesome now. The stain will definitely give us a couple of good years of protection before we need to do it again.

Tricia stains the deck
Tricia staining the deck with the playset project looming in the background

After we completed the deck, we moved right into the playset. Because it was built of pressure treated 2 years ago, the wood was much more thirsty. This coupled with far more intricate surfaces to cover made the project last the rest of the day. When it was all over, we had a matching deck and playset that should last a lot longer now that they’ve been protected.

UPDATE AUGUST 6, 2009
I’ve gotten quite a few comments asking how the deck looks after a year. I’m sad to report that it looks TERRIBLE! Here’s a few pictures of the stain peeling off of the pressure treated wood.

deck-stairs
The deck stairs, one of the high traffic areas, but not the only location where the stain is peeling

thumbs-down
A close up shows that there is a significant amount of stain that has flaked off after only a year

railing
Even the railings which receive no foot traffic are flaking

Anywhere on the deck that is exposed to the weather has some degree if flaking or peeling of the stain. The only place where the stain still looks good is under the deck canopy. The play set does not have nearly as bad of a problem. I’m going to guess that I damaged the stain by applying a second coat to the deck. The guy at the store only offered up this as a no-no AFTER I had come back for another can last year. He said that the first layer may repel the second layer of stain from sticking. I’m not sure. No matter what, I’m faced with figuring out next year how to prepare the surface of my deck for another try. I’m not sure what I’ll do then, but I’ll be sure to post when I do.

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Read: 35 comments on “DIY Deck Stain Weekend the Sherwin-Williams Way”

  • 1 Smart One 29 May 2008

    I have a few words for these hard working people. Your deck looks great but next time do yourself a favor save hours if not a full day on the railings and spindles.
    Use an applicator called SPINDLEase check out there web site. http://www.spindlease.com
    Talk about saving time wow. All I can say is if someone told me to put a brush on the end of a pole I would laugh in there face.

  • 2 Josie Galloway 25 February 2009

    I would like to know how your deck looked a year later. We used this product and it started to peal and flake off like paint-HATE IT! and they do not stand by their product!

  • 3 Jason 17 March 2009

    I would also like to see how your deck looked a year later! If it does not look too good could you please e-mail me a picture with you on the deck with an unhappy face in a similar position kneeling? Sounds weird… I know but I would like to use this story and picture in a deck staining marketing piece if possible. Please e-mail to marketing{at]sealwizekc.com.

  • 4 Brian Duncan 31 July 2009

    I’m getting ready to do my kids playset as well as our deck. We also have been researching stains and I’m wondering how yours is holding up? Any pics available. We have picked out the riverwood color like you have so it would be interesting to see it. Thanks.€

  • 5 Kris Rzepkowski 06 August 2009

    Well, there you go Brian, Josie and Jason. I added some updated photos. The surface didn’t hold the stain well at all. The only thing I can think of was that I shouldn’t have done a second coat. If anyone has any similar experiences I’d love to hear it. And if anyone has ideas how to prep the surface of the deck now that it looks like this, I’m all ears.

  • 6 robert 03 September 2009

    hi what you can do now is powewash it. also, when you stain again, use an oil based semi transparent this will penetrate into the wood more. if you find that all the previous stain didnt come off after the power wash you can use Wolmans Deck Strip and rewash it. my deck had 25 years of the same stain and now its all gone. dont waste your money on a electric power washer youd be better off renting a higher pressure gas washer. also most clears dont last and solid stains act more like paint and will scratch off leaving you to scrape and sand next time.

  • 7 Gregg 13 September 2009

    Can’t imagine the second coat did it. The Sherwin-Williams brochure actually recommends two coats, on weathered wood at least. Temperature? Inadequately prepared surface (we’re about to pressure was ours)? Or a better stain?

    What have you concluded?

  • 8 Nick 14 September 2009

    I use some Sherwin Williams deck products, but sad to say the Semi-Transparent waterborne is junk. I’m just outside of St. Louis, MO, and am a paint contractor, and the SW store I go to says the waterborne semi-trans is meant to be done every year. If you can somehow get all that crap off of there with stripper and a power washer, I’d go with a good old-fashioned stinky oil-based semi-transparent. It won’t peel, but you will have to do it every 2-4 years depending on traffic and sun exposure. Wolman F&P is pretty good and around here we use a brand called TWP. Search both of them and see what comes up. Good Luck!

  • 9 nick 14 September 2009

    As for “smart one” at the top of the page, his “spindlease” tool will only be effective on terribly smooth wood, such as pressure treated. Some of these toys people come up with don’t replace a fat brush and a few hours of labor. Anybody that told me to use one of those, I’d laugh in their FACE!

    Just imagine dipping that thing in a bucket of sticky stain over and over again and all the drips that would happen, or try that on some rough cedar. Oops, squeeze it too hard and all the stain runs out! What a nightmare! He tried to be clever, but failed. Staining a deck is work, regardless of the toys people come up with. Either hire a pro, or get ready to spend some time doing it yourself. Feel free to email me with questions at nick@snlpainting.com.

  • 10 Liz 05 October 2009

    My contractor just sprayed the lattice work on the back of our home and the stain looks more like paint than stain. He used 3 gallons and at $33.99 per gallon, it is turning into a very expensive project. The application was done with a sprayer, could that be the problem. I am not happy at all with the look.
    can anyone shed some light on what happened.
    we checked the cans and they are not the ones that contain paint and stain.

  • 11 Sheri 06 December 2009

    hi,, folks. have either of you come across colored wood stains, stains that might gie a hue to wood so that it looks, say, purple or blue? as I understand it, it wouldn’t work to just mix paint into varnish . . . but I’ve only come across one source for coilored stain (Dykem), and it seems to be an industrial product.

  • 12 Drew 12 March 2010

    Do not beat yourself up over the second coat. That did not cause the flaking. Any water-based sealer will wear the way yours did and will then be much more difficult to maintain. While the Sherwin-Williams folks seemed like they were helping, you need a pentrating oil-based sealer. It would not have been sticky (much easier to apply) and, more importantly, yearly maintenance would have been a snap. With a penetrating sealer, you simply clean the surface and re-apply whenever the deck is starting to lose its color.

    Yours is a great profile into why restoring and treating a deck is not always a DIY job. We do decks every week here in SoCal and know how bad some of the ones we are seeing are before we restore them. Thanks for sharing

  • 13 sharon newberg 15 March 2010

    boy now i am totally confused on this stuff. i live in florida and used pressure treated pine. please isn’t there someone out there that does this for a living and can direct me in the right direction? i want to add alittle color being it is pine but just like a light oak tone. should i use a oil base??.
    help me i am about ready to lose it with this deck

  • 14 Jon 14 June 2010

    You all must be frustrated, you need to use a pressure treated wood prep treatment. Go to Home Depot or Lowes or your local hardware store and buy a gallon of this potent acidic treatment. Apply the treatment to old wood decks & to new decks. The treatment will make the wood cells open up and become more porous, making the surface ready to paint. Let it dry for at least two hours after application. You are ready to paint. With pressure treated wood, old or new, you must prep the wood, otherwise paint or stain will look terrible after a couple of months.

  • 15 Kris Rzepkowski 14 June 2010

    @Jon, you are right, I am frustrated. I’m leaving this crummy stain on my deck for another year. It has flaked even more this summer, but I haven’t summoned up the desire to go after the deck again. Nonetheless, I’m gathering ideas on what I’m going to do next. I didn’t know that there was a treatment as you describe, so I’m going to look into it. Thanks for the idea!

  • 16 tyler 23 July 2010

    no matter where you get your stain, if it is a (waterborne) it will flake and peel. Its like taking a latex paint and walking all over it. Sooner or later it will flake, chip, or peel. I’ve been staining decks and painting for about 4 years and ive noticed that an oil-base is gunna last alot longer. It will dry slower giving it time to soak into the wood better, giving it a better adhesion. It will also get alot harder and more durable. I hate to say this, but the best way to fix this problem would be to powerwash, let dry for a day or two, then, the worst part, SAND it. Gunna take for ever but this will get rid of all of that nasty waterborne stain. Sherwin-williams is a Great store and they are very smart, they have good products, you just have to choose the right ones. The best people to talk to are the manager and asst manager. They will be the most helpful. Another thing that is going to take a huge affect of how long your stain last will be the weather. I would try to keep as much snow off of there as possible. No stain will last forever, But good care and oil-based stain will help it last longer.

  • 17 kim moran 26 July 2010

    Our deck did the same thing, but we used Behr products. Stay away from Behr. I’ve been staining my deck for 14 years now and the best thing Ive used so far is CWF. It lasted 3 years.I have also heard that One Time Wood is a good product but have not tried it myself. Good luck to everyone during this very time consuming expensive task!!

  • 18 Chris Lurie 28 July 2010

    We just had our deck stained yesterday with Sherin Williams Deckscape Solid Color. They finished at 4:oopm and today at about 3:30 it rained!! It was a very hot day about 90 degrees so the painter said it would be dry by today. The deck seemed dry today except for the last section they did. It seemed a tad tacky. My deck is about 12 years old but we power washed it and sanded it down days before the painter came and stained it. Will the rain ruin the finish? or worse yet do we have to do it over? This weather has been so unpredictable this year.

  • 19 Abigail Trainor 03 August 2010

    Two years ago we followed all of the Sherwin Williams directions on our 1200 square foot deck, powerwashing and doing all of the prep work. We applied waterborne semi transparent Deckscapes stain and were happy for about 3 months. Then the disaster occurred!! After the winter, it looked like the entire deck had chicken pox!! The Sherwin Williams reps came to take a look and said that the stain had not penetrated the decking boards. This was not a new deck, so it had some years to weather. They told us to power wash it again and apply oil based Deckscapes. They did supply 5 gallons at no charge. Again, after a few months, it looked embarrasingly awful.

    We are just finishing having new PT decking installed, but are really confused as to what product is best. Our intention is to apply some kind of an oil based product. We are thinking of semi transparent again, but want to make sure that it is a superior product which will not blister and flake all over. Any suggestions?

  • 20 Kris Rzepkowski 04 August 2010

    Wow, Abigail. I guess my advice for you is to stay far away from Sherwin-Williams. Since you applied oil-based which seemed to be everyone’s recommendation, and you still had problems, then I’m at a loss for what I would do next as well. You certainly have my attention, as what you did was very likely going to be my next step. Keep us posted on what you decide.

  • 21 Abigail Trainor 05 August 2010

    Hi,
    The original was waterborne, not oil based, which is supposedly the reason that the stain sat on top of the wood, hence our intent to use oil based product this time around. Trouble is we are very hesitant to repeat a disaster. What would anyone recommend for a good oil based product for new PT wood? I have heard that Penofin is good, but does it really require a wipe down of the stain? With the size of our deck, that is not our intention. Have also heard that TWP is good, but I don’t know.
    Thanks,
    Abigail

  • 22 Ann 21 September 2010

    I am very happy with my deck that I refinished 2 1/2 years ago using Sherwin Williams Waterborne Solid stain. We live on the coast in Georgia & I have not had any peeling. I followed the prep work directions in their brochure. This included using their Oil-Based Coating Life Extender prior to applying the stain. This is supposed to prepare the wood for the stain. Did you do this step? I’m curious as to whether or not this would prevent the stain from peeling.

  • 23 Kris Rzepkowski 22 September 2010

    @Ann, I did not use the Oil-based Coating life extender. I was not aware of that product, and you would have thought the store would have advised me to use it. If you are having good luck with it (although you used solid, not semi-transparent stain) perhaps that would have prevented the peeling I had. I’ll definitely keep it in mind for the next go-round.

  • 24 pat 14 December 2010

    This is typical of what I see from Deckscapes and Behr. If you want real questions answered, don’t ask the guy selling the product. You don’t need to prep the wood? Come on, anyone familiar with refinishing decks and the ones selling the product should know that the milling process closes the wood pores and needs to be reopened. There are true oil based stains out there that are way less than the 200 paid for the original poster. If you want to ask the pros directly go to http://deckstainingtips.com and see for yourself. It is a new site.

  • 25 pat 14 December 2010

    One more thought. I read the label on the deck cleaner for sherwin williams and if you look at the active ingredient, it is sodium hypochlorite. This is nothing more than bleach. Why did your stain not stick? That is because the bleach is caustic and as such stains do not stick to caustic surfaces. There is a forum at Deck Staining Tips where you can ask questions.

  • 26 jim carols 20 March 2011

    we used eco wood treatment on our deck from sherwin williams. worked geat

  • 27 Kris Rzepkowski 21 March 2011

    @pat, it’s nice when people come to my blog and leave links of use. Many people like to leave promotional links, which are annoying. Every once in a while though I get content of value from people that also happens to be promotional. I took a long look at your http://deckstainingtips.com site last night, and I really liked it. The articles are well-written and the design of the site is great. The forums don’t have a whole lot in there yet, but keep promoting them, and people will come.

    The reason I went to your site is that I started looking at the options for redoing my stain this year. It was a nice March day. I went into Lowes and had a conversation with the paint guy there. He was a patronizing @sshole. He nearly threw me out of the department for even considering stripping the deck in March. I didn’t know…March and April is my time to do projects before I feel like doing a million other things in the only nice weather months. Nonetheless, apparently I should wait to do this until we get at least 50 degrees day and night. That would be sometime in June.

    He also told me that oil based stains are worse than Latex based. He proceeded to berate me on something I must have done wrong for the Sherwin-Williams to fail so quickly. He narrowed it down to there must have been moisture in the wood.

    He told me Olympic products are better than the Cabot stains they sell. They are all latex. I really don’t believe this guy. Every comment here so far has been to go with oil. Needless to say I’m going to cool my jets for a month or 2 and in the meantime I’m going to try to get some better advice and find just the right product.

  • 28 Danica 12 April 2011

    We just stained our deck with Sherwin Williams Deckscapes oil-based Semi-Transparent stain. Looks great so far. We have steered clear from the waterborne stains. Two of our neighbors used Behr waterborne stains and in just a few months they were peeling like they had painted them. They look horrible and now they’re either going to have to powerwash them real good or sand them down and start over. I think oil is the best way to go, it absorbs into the wood, fading gradually over time rather than peeling, looking more natural rather than a defective product. And like others have said if you use an oil-based stain all you should have to do after 2-3 years after it fades and is no longer water repellent, just wash it real good and reapply stain. No sanding is normally necessary. I made the mistake of first applying Thompson’s Waterseal, that stuff sucks, faded within a couple months, didn’t look like we did anything to the deck. Had to sand it all off before applying the Sherwin Williams oil-based stain. Looks like a brand new deck! I can understand why you’re not in a hurry to re-stain. The preparation is the worst yet most important part, unfortunately you’re probably going to have to sand the entire thing. :(

  • 29 Bob 26 June 2011

    Try one time stain. You’ll have to make sure you clean all the old product off. Suppose to last 7 years.

  • 30 Joe 10 July 2011

    I had the exact problem with Sherwin Williams water-based stain and had the exact problem you had, what garbage! I had to spend a full 12 hours applying stripper pressure washing and then using Revive from SW. I just got done applying Sherwin Williams oil based semi-tansparent and it looks much better…hopefully it lasts

    One word of caution, make sure you get rid of all the old stain…if you don’t it will show through the new stain as a very glossy texture. I chose pressure washer bc it is easier, but you could also sand.

  • 31 Cassie 26 July 2011

    I stained three waterfront decks in Maine in 1995 with Sherwin Williams Solid color, off the shelf, Lodge Brown. When I sold the house six years later the decks were still beautiful with slight peeling where I’d missed a thorough power wash. Last weekend I started staining my decks (waterfront in Michigan) with the new Sherwin Williams Solid color, not off the shelf, Lodge Brown. At my current “stain per second/spindle rate” of 1 hour per section with 24 sections and the floors on five huge decks I should have pictures by Fall. I use Behr interior and exterior but will always stick to Sherwin Williams for the decks.

  • 32 Dan 14 August 2011

    I just sanded and stained a three year old swing set that had never been treated after it was installed. I was going to use Olympic Redwood Naturaltone oil based stain but a friend convinced me that Sherwin Williams products last longer and are better quality. The manufacturer of the swingset (Sunray by Rainbow) also recommended water based and not oil based since young children will be playing on this and water based is believed to be safer. The salesman at SW was very friendly, helpful, and professional. He explained that it is basically 6 one way, half a dozen the other when it comes to oil based vs water based. The state of Ohio has restrictions for the chemicals that they can include in the stains so they are both equally safe. He said that old timers will insist on oil based, but with the technology that they use now, water based will work just as well and last just as long. I purchased Deckscapes Redwood Waterborne stain. When I brushed this onto the wood, it bubbled as the wood sucked it in. This is the thirstiest wood I’ve ever stained. I was thinking about taking a video of it. You could see the stain getting sucked into the wood. I was going to work on it outside, but I was advised to do it in the shade to allow the wood to slowly absorb the stain as it dried slowly, so I worked on it in the garage. I’m a little nervous after reading the comments on this page. The wood looks very nice now. Maybe I’ll bring some of the components indoors during winter time to possibly avoid some of the problems. I’ll try to remember to update this in a year or so. Good luck everyone!

  • 33 Kris Rzepkowski 15 August 2011

    @Dan, thanks for the post! I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you. Unfortunately I don’t have a lot of good news to share. The playset I stained with the water based product looks just as bad or worse than the deck. It was similarly thirsty like yours was. The playset is in the sun and snow year round, and the product broke down VERY quickly. I just can’t get myself to spend the time to strip it and try again.

    The lines that these salespeople are giving about one product vs the other are amazing. I have proven that the water-based junk that Sherwin Williams is selling isn’t worth the time, money and effort. I’ve moved onto an oil-based product from SuperDeck. I’ll be posting the process of applying that product. I hope I have better results to report from that product in 3 years.

    Please do let us all know how yours holds up!

  • 34 Stripping and Staining Our Pressure Treated Deck | krisrzepkowski.com 23 September 2011

    [...] could consider this a follow-up post to the deck staining project I was so proud of 3 years ago. To review…I applied Sherwin-Williams Water Based [...]

  • 35 Deena 29 November 2011

    I had a contractor use Sherwin Williams deckscape solid stain on my front deck and within 2 months the deck is growing black mold. I’m being told it’s because I live near the water (2 blocks from the Long Island Sound) and the small shrubbery (which is 1-3 feet from the deck) is the cause. Sherwin Williams rep came out and told me it was improper prep of the deck…could have been wet when stain applied but is not blaming it on the proximity of the water and shrubs. The deck did NOT have a mold problem prior to this. Any suggestions on fighting this complaint?

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